The Fantasy of Fashion: Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022

They say the pandemic made us all more relaxed. We no longer had to get dressed to go out, and could make it on sweatpants and slippers, at least on zoom. But I think the opposite also holds true. The pandemic made us want to show up and show out all the more, probably as a way to escape some of the confines that isolation placed on us. While fashion has always been about the ultimate self-expression, the pandemic made me appreciate the drama and fantasy of fashion a lot more.

According to Otto Von Busch and Daye Hwang in the Feeling of Fashion, “fashion is an adventurous play and a gamble of sorts…an excitement, a moment of risk taking…a rushing sense of aliveness.” They argue that through fashion, “the prosthesis of the imagination” we put ourselves out there to be “judged by others” and “either this emotional gamble works or it does not.” Whew, what an exhilarating take on fashion! (and maybe a little scary?) If we play the “game” as they put it, we are actually putting ourselves in a position of vulnerability, revealing an “extended prosthesis of the self”, and maybe hoping (or not) that others will join in our fantasy with us. In this way, clothing as fashion becomes an extension of the body and mind, a way to say things about ourselves in the most creative ways if we choose. It allows us to be unique and at the same time, connect with others who understand our sartorial language.

I love the fantasy and excitement of fashion, and by the looks of this season’s fashion shows, it seems designers do to. I’ve collated the work of a few designers whose imaginative themes caught my attention, and made me want to come up with a fantasy theme for my own outfit. Read about the vision behind their dreamy looks below.

These opulent, shapely looks are from the Son Jung Wan fashion show, and the designer, Son Jung Wan, calls it the Enchanting Romance Collection. She was simply inspired by what she loves, “natural draping”, “pleating” and “dramatic color.” Some of the pieces are ultra romantic, others have a retro spin, and still others have a modern edge; yet the collection is held together with alluring fabrics and cuts. [pics from fashionweekonline.com; quotes from youtube]

The Altuzarra show by Joseph Altuzarra was a lesson in how to take the wanderlust theme to the next level. According to the designer, Joseph Altuzarra, the looks tell the story of a “sailor that’s seduced and then transformed into a mermaid”, hence the nautical references mixed with long fitting knit dresses, and gowns that resemble mermaid scales. I love the juxtaposition of the structured military look with the sense of fluidity associated with water. It’s that balance of structure and freedom I think we can all relate to. [pics and quotes from vogue.com]

The Victor De Souza collection by designer Victor De Souza, was full of fancy. Inspired by the interplay between “tradition and novelty,” he said, “I like to protect woman with clothes which is why my clothes are very armed.” Wearing clothes for protection fulfills our most basic physical needs and our social needs as well; and De Souza’s decision to incorporate that into his designs feels nurturing. While he could have gone full military or something ultramodern, he chose to protect with exaggerated, fairy tale detailing— a throwback to an older era. Often, when we have experienced trauma or hardship like a pandemic, we resort to comforts from the past. [pics from jtdapperfashionweek.com; quotes from l’officiel.com.ar]

The Proenza Schouler show designed by Jack McCollugh and Lazaro Hernandez proves that structured, tailored clothing don’t have to be stiff and traditional. They described their collection as the “new formality.” "It feels like we’re entering a new moment in our careers, in the world”, they said, “[the shapes] almost look like slight, historical nods.” At least for now, it seems that the world of fashion can be divided into pre- and post-pandemic dress; and this “new moment” they refer to likely reflects our new, more integrated way of viewing the world. Home, work, and school have all been mixed up with little delineation between them; and we may be more cognizant of our clothing doing double-duty than we did pre-pandemic. The collection feel pared down yet dramatic with full draping and a few glittery details on basic shapes that can be worn in multiple settings. Again we see the the nod to history, possibly reflectimg a desire to connect with the familiar. [pics from vogue.com; thecut.com]

“Young and Bold” is what Christian Juul Nielsen’s line, Aknvas, is known for. His collection is filled with “bright reds, yellows, oranges, and greens with pastels…to create fantasy pieces meant to be worn every day.” The collection is also infused with “dramatic outwear” that helps us to move “seamlessly from executive morning meetings to fashionable evening events.” I find the idea of clothing being both fantasy and dramatic on one hand, and everyday on the other very exciting and motivating. I can see it putting a little extra pep in my step. [pics from fashionado.net; euphoria.com]

I would say Moschino’s latest collection by designer, Jeremy Scott, is the ultimate example of fashion meets fantasy. He described his theme as “old money mansion”, and all the clothing and accessories look like they came from an old mansion with gilt framed detailing, cutlery-shaped ornamentation, bombay chest shaped dresses, drapery gowns, and more. It’s been referred to as “Beauty and the Best enchantment” with “household appliances” turned into “animated creatures.” Besides it being a ton of fun (and crazy), there is something to be said for turning a Disney theme into fashion that we can all recognize and join in on some level. While most of us would not wear a lampshade on our head or a clock on our chest, I can get with some cutlery earrings and a valance-shaped dress, wouldn’t you? [pics from vogue.com; quotes from fashionista.com]

All of this fantasy has really got me thinking how we can infuse a little drama into our everyday outfits. I don’t think the outfits have to necessarily look dramatic, but I think it would be interesting to see what we could create if our outfits had a thought out theme. So let’s give it a try! It may be a social risk like the above authors mentioned; but I think it is worth playing the “game” if it helps us to repeatedly refine our self-expression each time we try. Check out my IG reel to see my “turn of the century woman” outfit, as in the 20th century. I’ve been watching a lot of turn of the century footage and documentaries from the Gilded Age era which actually falls at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. I find it fascinating how the women put on rather than took off clothes to be sexy. So I imagined an outfit inspired by that time and needless to say it felt very Anne of Green Gables meets uptown girl, ha.