To Dupe or Not to Dupe: The Psychology of Wearing Knock-Off Brands
While searching for a shoe to go with a dress I planned to wear to an event, I came across a very fitting designer heel—perfect for my outfit but not so much for my wallet. So I continued scrolling and got excited when I found the same shoe for a quarter of the price. Of course, it wasn’t quite the same shoe, but a near exact replica with the exception of one or two details. Who would know? It looked exactly like the one I wanted, it’s more affordable, and does what I need it to do for the outfit. But just when I went to put it in my cart, my neurotic inclinations stopped me. Did I really want to wear these dupes? I’ll know they aren’t the real thing, and others, who pay attention to that kind of thing will too. Why was that a big deal for me? In that moment, I felt led to do some introspection.
Counterfeits, Dupes, and the Self
According to a 2012 study in Psychological Science, people tend to buy counterfeits (that is, a fake luxury product presenting as the real thing) to enhance their image, and project to themselves and others an aspirational version of who they are. Unfortunately, it also has the unintended consequence of making us feel like we’re trying to be something we are not, and “signals” a counterfeit, inauthentic self. Notably, the study found that those who wore counterfeit glasses were not only more likely to feel less authentic, but to also behave unethically and perceive others as unethical as well.
While dupes, also known as knock-offs, are not exactly counterfeits (at least legally as they do not use the same brand name and usually change up one or two details) they can be pretty darn close; and if you’re aware of the designer brand, you’ll know if the dupe is a little more than just a product “inspired by” the luxury brand. So perhaps, dupes carry the same unintended consequences as counterfeits, a sense that we are projecting an image that is not as authentic as we’d like it to be. There are some people, like myself, that seem to care more about that than others— What makes people care more or less?
Dupes and Values
Whether or not you embrace dupes may have something to do with what you value. According to an article in Vogue Business, Gen Z’s (those born between 1997 and 2012) have no problem with dupes; and in fact prefer them, particularly for trendy clothing that may not last more than a season. In other words, they want to present an image of luxury without spending the money to get it. More than that, Gen Z’s are loud and proud about their knock-offs. Even the term “dupes” sounds like something cool to have. Speaking as a Gen X’er myself, I can say that knock-offs were never one to brag about. We didn’t have “dupes”, we had “fakes” whether they were actually counterfeits or not. Knock-offs were something we tried to hide (that’s if we knew they were knock-offs) as wearing them reflected badly on the person seen as “posing” or pretending to be something they are not.
So what is the essence of this (seemingly generational) divide? Research shows that the more inaccessible or scarce a product, the higher the perceived value (via Psychology and Marketing).The reasons for this are complex, but it may have something to do with the value we place on being unique, particularly when it comes to clothing and other objects that reflect identity. But the desire to be unique and present an image of uniqueness may be separate processes. The latter seems to be more about having fun and presenting an image that is enhanced, but not necessarily feigned. That is, there is no shame in crafting an image that’s not necessarily true to reality b/c it is all in good fun— seemingly a byproduct of our social media age where everything is touched up or filtered.
When I struggled to buy those dupes, I couldn’t shake the fact that it was a copy of a very specific shoe (as opposed to a more classic one). I don’t always know a dupe when I see it; but when I know, I have a hard time unknowing it. Had it been a different shoe with a few different details, but the same feel, I would have felt better about it. Like the study mentioned, I felt the dupes made me feel inauthentic somehow—-I tied them to my identity as a creative person, and creatives don’t copy. On the other hand, if you don’t link dupes to your identity, but to a sense of frugalness, you may, similar to Gen Z’ers, see dupes as fun, and struggle less with buying them.
Shop your values
Ultimately, I didn’t go with the dupes. I found another luxury shoe from the same brand at a steep discount and went with those. But strangely, I’m much less picky about a pair of dupe earrings or a necklace if I really love it and it doesn’t go against my ethics (for example, brands who get hit really hard when big companies copy with no recognition). I like to have fun with jewelry and don’t always take it so seriously. On the other hand, shoes feel a little more substantial, and heavily dictates the mood of an outfit.
Someone else might feel differently about jewelry for different reasons. What we value can be attributable to a complex mix of factors including culture, personal experiences, and individual differences. Perhaps like Gen Z’ers, you’re fine with most dupes and prefer to invest your money in luxury items you feel are worth investing in. Or similar to someone like myself, you may strongly link authenticity to identity and not be as comfortable with dupes or at least certain dupes. But whatever you value, it’s important to be attuned to it. I could have easily bought the dupe shoes but it probably would have nagged at me. Clothing not only sends an image to others but impacts how we feel about ourselves, so it’s important to wear clothes that are aligned with our values.
Additional considerations when Choosing Between Dupes and Luxury Brands
Know the difference between a product and its dupe. This requires some research given we don’t always know (at least I don’t) when a product is a dupe. Creativity is fluid, and the concept of dupes can sometimes be unclear. You may have a pair of reasonably priced shoes that looks just like an iconic shoe made years before. Is this a dupe? Or maybe a brand decides to give homage to an iconic or classic brand by making a replica handbag and acknowledges the inspo brand. Would this be considered a dupe? Typically, it’s a dupe if it is intentionally selling a replica of an of-the-moment product at a more affordable price. Sometimes the dupe will acknowledge itself as such, playing up the popularity of dupes, but be different enough so as not be accused of counterfeit.
Study closely to see if the product is pretty much an exact replica or details have been changed, making it more of a close replica. If enough details have been changed, the shoe may feel more like it was “inspired by” the luxury brand than a replica. This is probably the dupe I’d feel most comfortable with.
Consider the price of the luxury product and the dupe; and whether you’ll wear it past one season. The more details on the replica that match the luxury product, the more closely it will be associated with the product, and possibly the more short-lived it will be, especially if the luxury product does not have longevity. If you decide to go with a replica, it should have fewer signature details than the on trend luxury product if you plan to wear it longer term.